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One was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian seasoning podi – a rough grind of searingly hot, coarsely crushed spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
225g paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and grated
1-inch piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
Forty milliliters mild oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, minced
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for 9 minutes, then pour off the liquid and allow to air dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for five minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Add the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a chunky blend.

Place in a sizable container with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then lightly combine with the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Skewer the components on to barbecue sticks, then place on a tray and set aside until needed – if desired, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Whisk all the ingredients for the dressing in a medium bowl. Turn on the grill to its maximum heat, then bake the sticks for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more salt and the sauce on the side for serving.