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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.